The Lavender Orpington has become one of those breeds that people fall in love with from a photo. The soft grayish-purple plumage, the round body shape, the calm look on the face — it’s the kind of chicken that ends up on Instagram with thousands of likes. And because of that, a lot of people end up buying Lavender Orpingtons without knowing what they’re actually getting into.
To be clear, this is a wonderful breed. But the color comes with some genetics most beginners don’t understand, the price is significantly higher than standard Orpingtons, and there are a few quirks that show up after the bird matures. Worth knowing before you spend $40-80 per chick, which is what good Lavenders are going for these days.
This guide covers what the breed actually is, what makes the color so tricky, and what new owners should think about before pulling the trigger.
What Lavender Orpingtons Actually Are
Lavender Orpingtons are a color variety of the standard Orpington breed, which originated in England in the late 1800s. The original Orpington was developed as a dual-purpose bird — meaning good for both eggs and meat — and the breed quickly became popular for its calm temperament and fluffy appearance.
The lavender coloring is much newer. It came from a recessive gene that dilutes black feathers into a soft pale gray, sometimes called “self-blue” by older breeders. The color isn’t actually purple, even though “lavender” makes it sound that way. In good light, it looks like a warm dove gray with a slight bluish tint. In overcast weather, they can look almost silver.
Body shape is classic Orpington — broad, deep, and low to the ground, with loose feathers that make them look bigger than they actually are. A full-grown Lavender hen weighs around 7-8 pounds, and roosters can hit 10 pounds. They’re not bantams, despite how they sometimes appear in photos next to smaller breeds.
The legs are slate gray or pinkish, the beak is light horn-colored, and the eyes are reddish-brown. Nothing about them is bright or flashy — they have this muted, almost vintage look that photographs really well.
The Color Genetics Problem That Catches Buyers Off Guard
This is the part nobody mentions when you’re staring at chick photos online. Lavender is a recessive gene, which means a chicken has to inherit it from both parents to actually look lavender. That sounds straightforward, but it creates problems over generations.
When breeders keep breeding lavender to lavender for too many generations, the offspring start developing a problem called feather shredding. The feathers become brittle, look frayed along the edges, and break easily. You’ll see birds with what looks like ratty feathers along the tail and wings — not because they molted, but because the structure of the feather itself is weak.
This is why serious breeders periodically cross their Lavenders back to black Orpingtons. It refreshes the feather quality. The trade-off is that some chicks from that cross won’t be lavender — they’ll be black, or split (carrying one lavender gene but showing as black). Beginners who buy from sources that don’t manage this end up with birds that look amazing as chicks but develop poor feather quality by their second year.
So when buying, ask the seller about their breeding program. If they only breed lavender to lavender, the line is probably degrading. Good breeders openly talk about their black crosses and split birds. If a seller doesn’t seem to know what you’re asking about, that’s a sign.
Egg Laying Reality
Lavender Orpingtons lay light brown eggs, medium to large in size. Production is decent but not exceptional — somewhere around 175-200 eggs per year per hen during their peak years. That’s solid, but it’s noticeably less than what production breeds give you.
The first year is usually the best. After that, like most Orpington types, production drops gradually each year. By year four or five, you might be looking at half what you got in year one.
They do go broody, though not as obsessively as Silkies. Maybe once or twice a year per hen. When they go broody, they actually do a reasonable job of raising chicks — Orpingtons are known for being good mothers. The broodiness can frustrate you if you want eggs, but it’s not constant.
One thing people notice after a year or two is that egg color can vary between hens. Some Lavender Orpingtons lay pale cream eggs, others lay a richer tan brown. Genetics from the line matter. Don’t assume your eggs will look like the catalog photos.
Temperament — Where the Breed Really Earns Its Reputation
If you ask Lavender Orpington owners what they love most, the answer is almost always the same: the personality. These birds are genuinely sweet. They follow you around the yard, let you pick them up without making a fuss, and a lot of them will sit on your lap if you encourage it.
They tend to be quiet too. Not silent — no chicken is silent — but they don’t have the loud, constant chatter that some Mediterranean breeds do. Roosters tend to be on the gentler side, though there’s always individual variation. A mean Orpington rooster exists, but it’s rarer than with other breeds.
This makes them a good fit for families with kids and for suburban setups where you don’t want to annoy the neighbors. The downside is that gentle birds at the bottom of the pecking order get bullied easily. In a mixed flock with assertive breeds, Lavenders often end up withdrawn, eating less, and losing condition.
Climate Considerations Most Buyers Skip
Orpingtons in general handle cold weather well. The loose feathering acts like a down jacket, and the body mass holds heat. Lavenders are no different in this regard — they’re a solid choice for northern climates as long as the coop is dry and draft-free.
Heat is where the problem shows up. All that fluffy plumage that keeps them warm in winter becomes a liability in summer, especially in humid regions. When temperatures climb above 90°F with high humidity, Lavender Orpingtons start panting heavily, holding their wings out from their body, and refusing to eat.
People in places like Texas, Florida, or the Gulf states often lose Lavenders to heat before they figure out the breed isn’t ideal for hot weather. Shade, frozen water bottles, shallow pans of cool water for them to stand in, and good airflow help a lot. But if your summers are brutal, this might not be the breed for you, no matter how pretty they look.
Cold tolerance also depends on the comb. Lavenders have single combs that stand up tall, and those combs can get frostbite in very cold weather. A coat of petroleum jelly on the comb during deep freezes helps prevent damage.
What to Watch For When Buying
This breed has a lot of variation in quality because of how recently the lavender color was developed. Not all “Lavender Orpingtons” are equal, and some sellers are taking advantage of the demand.
Things to ask before buying:
- How long has the breeder been working with Lavenders specifically?
- Do they outcross to black Orpingtons periodically?
- Can they show photos of adult birds, not just chicks?
- What’s the feather quality on their breeding stock?
Hatchery Lavenders are often cheaper but the color can be inconsistent — some birds look washed out, others look almost gray with patches of darker feathers. Breeder birds cost more but generally have better color, better feather quality, and better conformation to the breed standard.
Be cautious of “Lavender Orpington” listings on classified sites where the birds turn out to be Lavender mixes — crossed with Easter Eggers or other breeds to get the color in a smaller, easier-to-breed package. They might look similar as chicks but won’t have the body type, temperament, or egg production of a true Orpington.
Common Mistakes New Owners Make
A few patterns come up repeatedly with this breed:
Buying just one. Lavenders are social birds and a single Orpington kept alone gets depressed. Always start with at least three, ideally more.
Pairing them with aggressive breeds. Putting Lavenders in with Leghorns, Rhode Island Reds, or game-type breeds usually ends with the Lavenders getting picked on, losing feathers, and laying less.
Not adjusting for the heat. Especially in southern states, owners don’t realize how poorly fluffy breeds handle summer until they lose a bird to heatstroke.
Expecting show-quality color from hatchery birds. The Instagram-perfect Lavender Orpington color usually comes from breeder lines, not from $5 chicks at the feed store.
Ignoring feather shredding warning signs. If feather quality looks rough by the bird’s second adult molt, the line probably has the inbreeding problem mentioned earlier. Future generations will likely be worse.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much should I expect to pay for Lavender Orpington chicks? Hatchery chicks run $15-30 each. Quality breeder chicks range from $30-80, and started pullets or proven breeders can hit $100-200 or more.
Are Lavender Orpingtons recognized by the APA? Not yet. The American Poultry Association recognizes Buff, Black, Blue, and White Orpingtons, but Lavender is still working toward recognition. This affects whether you can show them in standard classes.
Can Lavender Orpingtons fly? Barely. They can flap up onto a low roost or a fence, but they’re heavy birds and not interested in flying. A 3-4 foot fence usually holds them.
Do Lavenders breed true? Yes — lavender to lavender produces lavender chicks. But as mentioned, doing this exclusively over many generations causes feather quality issues.
How are they with other pets? Generally fine. Most dogs that are calm around poultry do well with Orpingtons because the birds don’t run and panic the way nervous breeds do. Always supervise initial introductions, of course.
Are there other “Lavender” Orpington-like breeds I should consider? If you love the color but want better summer tolerance, look at Lavender Ameraucanas — smaller body, blue eggs, and less heat-sensitive. The temperament is different though.
Worth It or Not?
Lavender Orpingtons are a fantastic breed for the right setup. If you have a moderate climate, want gentle birds that double as pets, and don’t mind spending more upfront for a quality bird, they’re hard to beat. The way they look in the yard on a sunny afternoon, soft and silvery and slow-moving, has its own kind of charm.
But they’re not a budget breed, they’re not a heat breed, and they’re not the right pick if maximum egg production is the goal. Going in with realistic expectations makes all the difference between someone who loves their flock five years later and someone who feels like they overpaid for a chicken that didn’t deliver.
If you’ve done the homework and they still feel right, get a small starter group from a thoughtful breeder, give them a calm flock environment, and they’ll reward you with years of pleasant company and pretty eggs in the basket.